By Marian Betancourt
The first thing that struck me about northern Germany was how tall the people are. As a six-footer, I felt right at home. Centuries back, these northerners must have mixed it up with their long-boned Viking neighbors. This was my first visit to Germany and on the Fourth of July I had the privilege of attending the opening day ceremonies of Emigrant World Ballinstadt in Hamburg Harbor. Sitting with others under a giant white tent, I listened to very moving talks about the impact of the 19th and 20th century emigration to America. My own ancestors, including a German great-great grandfather, emigrated to New York City where I still live. While there were no fireworks at this July Fourth celebration, the sun did burst through for the occasion after several days of rain.

This day was the culmination of a week exploring northern Germany including the earlier Emigration Center in Bremerhaven, which had just won first prize as Europe’s best museum for 2007. Our small group traveled in a small bus limited to a reasonable speed on the limitless autobahns. Cars speeding by in the left lane at 100 or more miles an hour made me shudder (literally). Less scary is Germany’s clean and efficient mass transit system. You can get on buses or subways without waiting on a line to pay your fare. The honor system works until an inspector asks for your pass. If you don’t have it, well, off you go. In Bremen, where bicycles have the right of way, the entire population seems to commute on two wheels.
As a foodie, I was delighted that my visit coincided with the young herring season in the North Sea and I tasted these delicious “maatjes” every day. But it was the potatoes that made me swoon in ecstasy. They are so flavorful and buttery, unlike anything I had ever tasted, I knew I would only find them in Germany. Just as good wine depends on “terroir,” so it is for German potatoes.
My room at Le Royal Meridian in Hamburg, a newly renovated design hotel, had a walk-in shower with so many water jets that I took as many showers a day as time allowed, knowing that soon I would return home to a very ordinary shower. In the hotel restaurant overlooking Lake Alster, I watched the early morning rowers and sailors while enjoying freshly brewed tea (from a wide selection) with breakfast.
The big marketplaces (marketplatz) in the towns are where you will find vendors offering food, flowers, and goods of all kinds. For example, in Wismar, formerly part of East Germany, a vendor was selling black handbags with a decidedly Eastern style. In Hamburg, long picnic tables were set with checkered or flowered tablecloths allowing visitors to sit and enjoy a bratwurst and a beer. On the next street, high fashion designer stores serve an international clientele. At the head of each marketplatz is a centuries-old town hall where civic and social activities are still carried out.

While we drove along the North Sea coast (in the slow lane) toward the Netherlands, I was mesmerized by the landscape—flat grassland, a clump of trees here, a little group of cows there, and those fabulous puffy clouds over head. (Once again, the sun came out at just the right time.) I was in one of those wonderful landscape paintings from the time of Rembrandt only 400 years later. And it gets better. In Emden we stopped for some East Frisian tea and learned that the traditional tea ceremony relates to the clouds. You add drops of clotted cream into your tea cup—but don’t stir—just watch the drops melt into the tea and recreate the shape of the clouds. Now, how cool is that! (In Emden’s lovely art museum, the Kunsthalle, you can see a contemporary painting of those clouds.)

In Lubeck I fell in love with Thomas Mann. The Buddenbrooks museum is a replica of the house where Mann’s grandparents lived and which inspired him at age 25 to write his first novel, which became a best-seller. I had known about this Nobel prize-winning author, but when I got home not only did I read Buddenbrooks (and couldn’t put it down), I rented the entire 11-episode German TV series of the same name that was filmed in the areas I had just visited. This multi-generational saga of the merchant class in northern Germany is packed with history and drama. Mann also described everything people ate, which to a foodie like me, is nirvana.
This is only a fraction of the pleasure of my trip. I came home wanting more; not only more of the north, but all the rest of Germany.